Why Connect Your Water Butts?
Rainwater harvesting is a cornerstone of sustainable gardening, reducing reliance on mains water and helping to manage storm run-off. While a single water butt is a good start, many gardeners find their initial capacity insufficient, especially during prolonged dry spells or after heavy rainfall when run-off can overwhelm a single container. Connecting two or more water butts together is a popular and effective solution, multiplying your water storage potential exponentially. This allows for a more consistent supply for watering lawns, flowerbeds, and vegetable patches, and can be a vital strategy during hosepipe bans.
The primary benefit is increased volume. If one water butt holds 200 litres, connecting two means you have 400 litres available. Connecting three doubles that again. This greater volume offers a buffer, ensuring you have water even if it hasn't rained for a few days. Furthermore, linking them often simplifies the process of drawing water; you can usually fit a single tap at the lowest point of the connected system, serving all linked butts. It's a smart way to scale up your water conservation efforts without needing to install complex irrigation systems immediately.
Consider the space you have available. While connecting butts offers more water, each butt requires ground space and ideally a stable, level base. Assess your garden layout to determine if multiple butts can be accommodated safely and efficiently. Also, think about the downpipes from your house or shed – do you have multiple downpipes, or can one serve a series of connected butts? Understanding your site limitations is key to a successful expansion.
Assessing Your Needs and Space
Before purchasing any connection kits or additional water butts, take stock of your current usage. How much water do you typically use for your garden? How often does your existing butt run dry? This assessment will inform how many butts you realistically need to connect. A small patio garden might only need one or two, while an allotment or large lawn may benefit from a more extensive system.
Measure the available space. Water butts need a stable, level platform, often elevated slightly to allow gravity to feed water through a tap or to a watering can. Ensure there's enough room for the circumference of each butt, plus space for access and potential overflow pipes. Also, consider the location of your downpipes. Ideally, the water butts should be positioned close to a downpipe that can feed them, and the overflow from the last butt in the series should be directed safely away, perhaps into a soakaway or another part of the garden.
The total volume you aim for should be a realistic reflection of your garden's water requirements and your available space.
Choosing the Right Connection Method
Connecting water butts typically involves either a specific water butt connection kit or using a flexible hose with appropriate fittings. Connection kits are generally the most straightforward and reliable method, designed specifically for this purpose.
Materials and Connection Kits
To successfully connect water butts, you'll need a few key items. The most crucial is a water butt connection kit, or its equivalent components. These kits usually contain a flexible hose, a drill bit for creating holes in the butts, and fittings to secure the hose between them. Some kits might also include a 'diverter', which is a device that fits into your downpipe, directing water into the first butt and automatically channelling excess water into the next, or back down the drainpipe if all connected butts are full. Ensure the kit you choose is compatible with the types of water butts you have or plan to buy.
You will also need the water butts themselves. Ensure they are clean, stable, and preferably have a tap fitted at the base of the first one in the series. If you are connecting multiple butts that don't come with taps, you might need to fit a tap to the lowest point of the entire connected system. A level, sturdy base is non-negotiable; water is heavy, and an unstable structure is dangerous. Bricks, a purpose-built stand, or a sturdy paving slab can serve this purpose. Finally, consider overflow solutions. A dedicated overflow pipe from the last butt in the series is essential to prevent flooding or water damage if the butts become completely full.
What You Need to Connect Water Butts
- Two or more water butts
- A water butt connection kit (including hose, drill bit, and connectors) OR separate flexible hose and fittings
- A downpipe diverter (optional, but recommended for automated filling)
- A stable, level base for each butt
- Drill (if not using a pre-drilled connection point)
- Spirit level
- Measuring tape
- Overflow pipe(s) and fittings
Installing a Water Butt Connection Kit
The process generally involves drilling a hole into the side of each water butt at the desired connection height. This height should be consistent for all butts that will be linked in series, ideally positioned just above the base to maximise storage but below the overflow outlet. The kit's drill bit is usually sized to match the hose connectors. Once the holes are drilled, the connectors are inserted and secured, often with rubber seals or washers to ensure a watertight fit. The flexible hose is then attached between the connectors, creating the link. If using a diverter, it replaces a section of your existing downpipe, with its outlet connected to the inlet of your first water butt.
A consistent water level across connected butts is achieved because water flows from the fuller butt to the emptier one.
Before drilling, check the internal structure of your water butt. Some have reinforcing ribs or internal baffles that might interfere with the placement of the connector or the integrity of the seal. Ensure you drill into a flat, solid section of the plastic.
Alternative Methods and Considerations
While purpose-made connection kits are popular, alternative methods exist for linking water butts, and several considerations are vital for a successful setup. If you're using older water butts or can't find a suitable kit, you might adapt by using a length of wide-bore flexible hose (like those used for ponds or submersible pumps) and securing it with robust hose clamps and sealant. However, ensuring a watertight seal can be more challenging with improvised solutions.
Another approach is to position butts side-by-side and drill holes at the same level on each, connecting them with a short hose. This is simpler if you have limited space but might mean you can't utilise the full depth of the butts if the connection point isn't low enough. The critical factor is that water seeks its own level. Therefore, all connection points between linked butts must be at precisely the same height. If they are not, water will only fill the lower butt completely, leaving the higher ones empty or only partially filled.
Watering System Integration
Connecting water butts can be the first step towards a more sophisticated garden irrigation system. Once you have a significant volume of stored rainwater, you can connect a small, low-voltage pump to draw water from the lowest point of your connected butts. This pump can then feed a garden hose, a drip irrigation system, or a lawn sprinkler, allowing you to water your garden more efficiently and with less manual effort. Systems like drip irrigation are particularly effective for water conservation, delivering water directly to the plant roots and minimising evaporation.
Consider the pressure available. A simple gravity feed from a tap will provide low pressure, suitable for filling watering cans or for very basic drip systems. A pump is necessary for higher pressure applications, like using a garden hose reel with a spray gun or running a lawn sprinkler. If you plan to integrate a pump, ensure the water butt tap or outlet you connect it to is robust enough to handle the flow and that the water butts are positioned to allow for easy connection and maintenance of the pump.
The overflow from your connected water butts should always be managed to prevent erosion or waterlogging.
Maintenance and Longevity
Regular maintenance ensures your connected water butts function optimally and last longer. Periodically, check all connections for leaks. Even a small drip can lead to significant water loss over time. Clean out any debris that might accumulate in the butts, such as fallen leaves or sediment, especially if you are not using a filter in your downpipe. Algae can grow in water butts exposed to sunlight; while not harmful to plants, it can affect water clarity and potentially clog pipes. Some water butts come with UV-resistant properties, or you can paint them a dark colour to minimise light penetration.
Ensure the tap at the base of the system is kept clean and free from blockages. If you live in an area that experiences frost, you should drain your water butts before winter to prevent damage from freezing water. Leaving a tap slightly open can also help prevent pressure build-up. If you are using a diverter, check that it's clear of obstructions and functioning correctly, especially before heavy rainfall, to ensure it directs excess water away efficiently.
If you notice your water butts are not filling as expected or are not emptying evenly, re-check that all connection points are at the exact same height. Even a minor difference can prevent proper flow between them.
When to Consider Alternatives
While connecting water butts is an excellent way to increase rainwater storage, it's not the only method, and it may not be suitable for every situation. If your garden space is extremely limited, or if the ground is uneven and difficult to level, a compact single water butt or a slimline water butt might be a more practical choice. Similarly, if your downpipes are positioned very far apart, connecting them might involve lengthy and potentially cumbersome hoses.
Consider if your primary need is for a constant, high-volume supply. If you're irrigating a large vegetable patch daily or maintaining a significant lawn area, a simple collection of water butts might still be insufficient. In such cases, a more integrated garden irrigation system, perhaps drawing from mains water with a timer, or a larger rainwater harvesting tank connected to a more substantial pump, might be more appropriate. These systems, while more complex and costly, offer greater capacity and control.
Comparing with Other Water Storage Solutions
When evaluating how to connect water butts, it's worth comparing them against other water-saving techniques. For instance, mulching your garden beds helps retain soil moisture, reducing the need for frequent watering. Ground cover plants can also suppress weeds and keep the soil cooler. Water-wise planting, choosing drought-tolerant species for your garden, is another strategy that lowers overall water demand. These methods supplement rainwater harvesting by reducing the amount of water your garden needs in the first place.
Expandable garden hoses offer convenience for reaching different parts of the garden but do not store water. If your goal is purely water conservation, they serve a different purpose. For very specific watering needs, such as for pots or a small vegetable plot, a watering can may suffice, negating the need for a large storage system. A drip irrigation system, as mentioned, can be very efficient but requires a reliable water source and pressure, often necessitating pumps if relying solely on collected rainwater. If your focus is purely on sustainability and reducing mains water use, a well-connected water butt system is a strong contender, but understanding its limitations against more advanced irrigation or storage solutions is key.
The decision to connect water butts should align with your specific watering needs and available garden space.
The Role of Downpipe Diverters
A downpipe diverter is a useful accessory when connecting water butts, especially when linking multiple butts in series. It's designed to be fitted into your existing downpipe. When it rains, the diverter channels water into your first water butt. Crucially, most diverters have an automatic overflow mechanism. Once the first water butt is full, the diverter redirects any further incoming rain water, either down the original downpipe or into the next connected butt in your system. This prevents the first butt from overflowing and wasting water, and ensures that subsequent butts in the series begin to fill.
When choosing a diverter, ensure it is compatible with your downpipe's shape and size (e.g., square or round). Check the type of hose it uses, as this needs to connect securely to your water butt's inlet or connecting hose. Proper installation is key; the diverter needs to be at the correct height to allow the first water butt to fill completely before redirecting flow. This automated redirection is what makes linking multiple butts so effective, turning a simple rainwater collection setup into a scalable water storage solution with minimal manual intervention.